Beveling bulkheads

I also recently started beveling my BHs and transom since they are all glued up. Despite my initial fear of beveling, it is quite easy, even for a beginner. I mark the edges of the BH first and draw a line for the bevel, and then on the face that is to be beveled I draw a line connecting the two edge bevels. That way, I have a nice visual of what needs to be planed off. Heres an example:

Heres a side of BH1 all beveled up:


BH 1 and the Transom are easy to bevel because all the frame pieces are on the same side. I am running into problems on BH 2 and 4 because I need to make bevels but cant get my plane to the end of the BH because a frame on the opposing side blocks it. This is frustrating. I glued everything up as I was supposed to, minus the side frames that are added after the boat is glued together (this is me saying to the skeptic: I read the directions and followed them to the T). In retrospect, I feel like I needed to piecemeal construction of the BH and bevel a piece at a time. Heres an example of the problem on BH4:


Above is BH 4, looking along the bottom edge that is to be beveled. The bevel drops from left to right, so the high side is on the left. The side frame in the distance will block the plane from finishing the last section, unless I can get a bevel on the side frame. Then plane should pass over it no problemo. Heres another example but on a side frame now:


So this is looking down the side of this particular BH. I have marked the bevel I need on the side (2mm) with the continuation on that bottom frame. From this perspective imagine the plane is coming down the side of the BH towards you, the viewer. As you can see, it will be blocked by the side frame unless I can bevel that too. I dont know how to easily bevel this so I can bevel the rest.

UPDATE: Someone over at the Storer forum mentioned a few options, of one them being a rasp. I took care of this problem in 5 minutes... my brains just not working today. Theres a reason Im not at work!

SUCCESS!

One of my big problems from the dry-no-screw-fit the other day was that I could not suck in the chine logs around BH1 and BH2 enough to easily screw the drywall screws through the ply to hold everything in place. I wrastled and wrastled with it and then the screws pulled out and I almost threw my drill through a window.

Today I put the boat back together for another dry-no-screw-fit again and hemmed and hawed over it with my sister-in-laws husband for an hour or so. We came up with many ideas, like driving eye screws into the chine log and getting a turnbuckle to pull the chines together. Another idea was to join two clamps together underneath the boat and use a block to keep them from sliding forward along the hull... but how to defeat gravity from dragging the clamps down? BEHOLD MY GENIUS:







The above sequence is from starboard to port.

There is definitely a beautiful curve to the bow now that I got it sucked in, the boat looks sublime!


Take note that the boat is resting on three different sized objects so not everything lines up great right now. ALSO my notches in my BHs are too big, except for BH1. Thank goodness for the filling power of epoxy! Its not going to be the neatest boat in the world, but it will work, by Jove!

SO now Im going to mark where things go, and then precoat the panels with epoxy, and varnish the BHs so I can just drop everything in place and not have to sand upside down, etc.

Chinelogs

The epoxy on the chinelogs took well, the scarf is a success as far as Im concerned. Once I sanded down the excess epoxy the joint looks clean and tight, Im happy with the result. Today I placed the chinelogs in position onto the sides of the boat. I did things a little opposite because Im by myself and I was trying to make the operation go smoothly and precisely. I placed the bow piece 5cm back as dictated by the plans, with 1cm overhang the bottom edge, and screwed it in place. I placed a total of 6 position screws that are not designed to provide the clamping power, I used clamps instead. I get the feeling that the plans call for screws to be pushed through from the outside of the hull, but I felt Id have more control over the chinelogs if I did everything facing them. I was careful to place the screws in hidden locations, behind BHs, in watertight tanks, etc. I have pretty much 1cm throughout the length of the side, with a few locations with 1mm variations, of which Im ok with. A pre-coat of epoxy, then thickened epoxy application, clamps, clean up (difficult), and viola:


All I have left to do now is put together that stem and I can do a dry-fit.